All About Grenache . . .


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As many of you know, I am quite passionate about rhone varieties in general. I believe there is more ‘variety’ in these varieties than in most others, and they tend to be ‘underdogs’ in today’s wine market, something I can appreciate as I’ve always been a fan of ‘the underdog’.

The Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wines recently posted a blog post about Grenache entitled ‘Next Big Thing or Another Passing Fancy’ and I was intrigued by the thoughts put forth by Stephen Eliot, the author. He expressed his love for the variety, but his ‘frustration’ on not seeing it get more enthusiastic support from the public. Read his post here.

He ponders whether this lack of support is due to the fact that the wine is currently made in so many different styles that consumers can’t ‘understand’ it easily.  Or whether it is because it tends to be a blending grape and rarely stands on its own. Finally, he wonders out loud whether or not Grenache ‘is a varietal capable of real greatness, of complexity and depth that will rival that of the best Cabernets, Pinot Noirs and Syrahs . . .’.

I think these are all valid points, and ones that need to be discussed further. To me, the real issues are as follows:

  • Most consumers have not been exposed to the variety on its own often enough, and therefore more exposure and education has to occur. Go to a Rhone Rangers event and taste these wines – in fact, there will be a seminar devoted to the variety at the next event in early April.
  • Many ‘grenaches’ out there tend to be blends, even those labeled as ‘grenache. When winemakers blend syrah or other varieties into Grenache to ‘give it more structure’ or ‘to add the color missing in the variety’, they, to me, mask the underlying beauty the variety brings forth. Why is it okay to do this with Grenache but NOT okay to do this with pinot noir?
  • Many domestic Grenache producers are starting to price themselves out of the market for these wines, even before there is much of a market. Pricing needs to be kept at reasonable levels for consumers to be willing to give them a shot.
  • Winemakers, in my opinion, need to take a more ‘hands off’ approach to ‘tweaking’ these wines. Lay off the new oak, which will oftentimes cover up what the variety brings to the table rather than ‘adding’ to it. Understand that these wines will tend to be a bit higher in alcohol than other varieties because their skins are incredibly tough and bitter and you have to have the patience to wait to pick until the skins soften.

I would love to hear your thoughts on domestic grenaches and what might be done to shine more light on the variety and expose it to more folks.

Cheers!

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3 comments on “All About Grenache . . .

  1. Dave Simpson says:

    Grenache is one of my FAVORITES. Sooooo long a blender in GSM, it has started to find it rightful place as a Stand-Alone varietal. I started as a Cab Merlot snob, but as my eyes and palate opened, I have discovered a fondness for the individual varietals of the Rhone region. Grenache, as well as, Mourvedre, are terrific. However, the pricing in relation to the demand could cause the varietal to go back to a blender. Price it right, build the demand, then price it for the market.

  2. tercerowines says:

    Thanks for ‘playing’ David, and I completely concur about finding its place AND pricing./ That said, many rhone blends have really shot up in price recently, and many stand alone grenaches and mourvedres are ‘quite reasonable’ compared to many of these today.

    Cheers!

  3. I love Grenache, and since we are in California, have recently been seeking those out, although I do LOVE southern Rhone Grenache-based blends. Can people recommend to me some good CA Grenache? Some that I’ve had recently are: Hobo 2012 Grenache, Opolo Grenache (vintage?), and well, a GSM blend called El Chupacabara from Traveiso (2008). Cheers!

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